A tiny taste of the Great Ocean Road

Words by Lynda Crawford

With direct flights to Melbourne now on our doorstep it’s never been easier for us to check out the delights of Victoria.

Of course, we could spend days, weeks, only exploring the southern capital (so many laneways!). But just outside of Melbourne, one of Australia’s top tourist destinations is waiting for you to make your roadtrip playlist, grab some snacks and come visit.

Ranked by Lonely Planet as number 12 on the list of must-see Australia sights, The Great Ocean Road features stunning coastal views, pockets of lush rainforest, delectable delights and adventures to fit every budget and timeframe.

If you had to, you could see the sights in one day. We recommend taking your sweet time, and discovering all the hidden delights along this 243km route.

Here’s a few spots I saw and loved.

Day 1: Torquay and Bell’s Beach to Lorne

Torquay is the official starting point so it’s mandatory to stop and get a selfie with the sign that says so. I headed to the Torquay IGA to get supplies for the next few days. Eating out is the best, but I wasn’t travelling on a Kardashian budget.

Then there was time for a quick cruise through town to check out the beach and the esplanade.

Torquay is home to the Australian Surf Museum and hall of fame, and if you’re feeling energetic, it’s the starting point for a 44km surf walk that connects Torquay, Anglesea and Aireys Inlet.

If you’re any kind of Swayze fan (and who isn’t) then you’ll be making a pilgrimage to Bell’s Beach in honour of surf bro Bodhi. Time your trip for April and you could secure a spot of sand to see the Rip Curl Pro at Bells, home of the longest running surf comp in the world (12-24 April 2017).

Iconic Bell’s Beach

After driving through delightful seaside villages Anglesea and Aireys Inlet, I stayed the night in Lorne.

It’s one of the more populated and popular spots on the Great Ocean Road so accommodation can be booked out in advance. There’s lots of choice from backpackers to luxe apartments. The Mantra is right on the beach and offers an Endota Spa.

I paid $159 a night to stay in a spa studio at Chatby Lane Lorne, where I received super service – even being given a tour of the two rooms available and left to make my pick. It was comfortable, quiet and private. It’s located about a 20-minute walk from the main town centre, but if you can handle the few hills you’ll need to conquer to get home that’s not a problem.

While in Lorne swing past Teddy’s Lookout, where you’ll get a breathtaking drone’s eye view of the Great Ocean Road. Grab a beer with a view at the Grand Pacific Hotel, pick up dinner at the Lorne Hotel or Pizza Pizza or cruise down to the Lorne Pier with a rod to see what you can catch.

My choice for dinner? The Bottle of Milk with its surf slash hipster vibe was a perfectly casual end to a stunner of a day. Burgers all the way baby.

Majestic Teddy’s Lookout

Day Two: Lorne to Peterborough

A juice and some bacon at Moons Espresso Bar fuelled my first stop: clambering down wooden stairs to enjoy the serenity of Erskine Falls.

Lorne is the door to the Otways – a lush national park and hinterland. If you love getting up in nature’s grill this area is for you. There are plenty more waterfalls to explore, and restaurants focusing on seasonal produce (Brae is on the list for next time) await when you venture inland.

Erskine Falls

However, I had other plans, so my next stop was Apollo Bay. A picnic lunch on the beach with IGA supplies amidst busloads of tourists was first. A must do was next. When you go to Apollo Bay go directly to Marriner’s Lookout – do not pass go, do not collect $200. Simply drive up a hill, do a short walk up another hill, and you’ll find the most sweepingly spectacular panoramic views. And there were no tourists up there – only fat and happy sheep.

Feel on top of the world at Marriner’s Lookout

From Apollo Bay route B100 winds inland through some stunning scenery, and it’s about an hour and 20 minutes (more if you have a roadwork situation) to get to the main event: the 12 Apostles (or more accurately: 8).

First thing: it really is as beautiful a sight as you think it’s going to be. Second thing: it’s crowded as. Third thing: flies. They were unbearable. People were wearing fly veils and I didn’t laugh, I envied them. That’s summer in Australia.

Watching the limestone cliffs change colour as the sun went down was incredible. Jostling for photo position amongst the crowds was not. But those the breaks when you wanna get a selfie with famous rocks.

Also in the area are the Grotto, London Bridge, Bay of Martyrs and Loch Ard Gorge. Each site has its own charms, but I loved the Grotto, a sinkhole/cave/arch that felt secluded and just a little bit magical. Each site is really well signed along the way with lots of car parking and maintained walking tracks.

12 Rocks Café and Beach Bar in Port Campbell supplied a totally decent steak dinner after all the excitement of the day.

My trip was planned so I would arrive at sunset and come back at sunrise. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans. That night it started raining and it didn’t stop, so come morning time I was snoozing cosily in my cabin at the Great Ocean Road Tourist Park at Peterborough. At $120 a night, this family friendly caravan park is nestled near the Curdies River Inlet. You need to know, this caravan park has a gigantic jumping pillow. It’s like a tramp on steroids.

The main event: 12 Apostles

12 Apostles with the Grotto in the lower right hand corner.

Gotta get that selfie

Day three: Peterborough to Robe, SA

Hitting the road in the morning I made a stop at the Bay of Islands where I was almost blown into the sea by a ferocious wind that kept up the same pace all day. Nature is the ruler around here, and it likes to remind you every chance it gets.

Only 30 minutes after leaving Peterborough you come to the official end of the Great Ocean Road, Allansford (home of a cheese world), near Warrnambool. But the sights keep going. So I did too.

Warrnambool had a very Toowoomba-by-the-sea vibe. Old timey buildings, walls of street art and natural beauty.

From there it’s half an hour to the totally cute village of Port Fairy. Lots of historic stone buildings, a marina, a surging coastline and a wide, beautiful main street, Port Fairy is worth the extra kilometres. It feels more European than Australian, and in fact it was settled mostly by Irish immigrants.

Port Fairy

From here you could turn around and head back to Melbourne with a great trip under your belt. But if you want to cross state lines why not just keep going?

I spent the night in Robe, South Australia, a larger and just as charming version of Port Fairy. Previously a fishing port, it’s reinvented itself as a tourist destination with a food scene based around seasonal, local and fresh produce.

For accommodation The Lakeview Motel and Apartments was a good bet at $121 – clean and friendly service.

My room did, as promised, have a lake view, and it was an easy walk into town, which delivered a dinner to remember at Sails at Robe. They’re famous for their Southern Rock Lobster (October to May), and it’s so in demand you have to book this meal in advance. Settling for the blue swimmer crab and spaghetti, like I did, is a worthy second choice.

Breakfast was at warm and welcoming No 4 Robe, and it featured Persian fairy floss, so all was right in the world. A quick swing past the red and white and 160-year old Cape Dombey Obelisk, a walk down Smillie Street and a stop at some beaches and the marina and it was time to go. If the Robe Ice Cream and Lolly Shop was open, well, I would have stayed, but sadly I left without sampling those delights.

It’s about three and a half to four hours to Adelaide along the Princes Highway, give or take. Absolutely do stop at Kingston SE to get your photo with Larry the Lobster – it’s not an Australian roadtrip if you don’t get that ticked off. Also along the way is the lakeside village of Meningie, and just outside it, a pink salt lake, with a spot for you to pull over to grab a snap.

Sunset at Robe

Robe Obelisk

Larry the Lobster

Adelaide is a welcome sight at the end of this trip, with its wide tree-lined streets, surf suburbs and bustling bars. And from the Adelaide Airport you can fly direct back to Brisbane, or take a Qantas flight to Wellcamp that stops in Sydney or Melbourne.

If you needed any further invitation to hit the Great Ocean Road, Airnorth have just announced they’re adding more direct services between Wellcamp and Melbourne from May.

Adelaide

The Verdict

At number 1 on my Australian travel bucket list the Great Ocean Road didn’t disappoint. I loved the variety, the stunning scenery, and that apart from the 12 Apostles, the trek is not as crowded as you’d think.

Favourite spots were Lorne and the Marriner’s Lookout. And on the next visit the Otways will have my full attention.

Tips

• You think it’s summer? It’s not. Take a windbreaker jacket and other warm clothes, plus comfortable walking shoes.
• Plan to see sights like the 12 Apostles at either sunrise or sunset for maximum impact.
• Consider booking ahead. I stayed in Peterborough because all the accommodation at Port Campbell was snapped up.
• Hit up the locals for their recommendations on where to go and what to eat.
• Take food. These are small towns and many places are shut during the low season. There’s no guarantee you’ll be fed if you roll into town after 8pm.
• Go in daylight savings time. The sun doesn’t set until around 9pm – so much more sunshine time to see the sights.
• Have a plan B. The rain and wind have no care for your perfectly planned itinerary. Go with the flow, there’s more than enough to see.

Visit greatoceanroad.org.au for all info you’ll need.

Bonus Playlist Inspo: